I was already planning my return trip to Morocco before actually setting foot in the country. It was just a feeling I had mostly because I’ve always wanted to explore the region in depth, and partly because I knew I needed more than a week there.
But this getaway couldn’t come soon enough. Both my husband and I needed to disconnect a bit from our daily hustle in Stockholm plus we have Moroccan friends in Casablanca so we packed up our 11-month old baby and headed south to Marrakech and Casablanca.
I did a bit of research beforehand…from negotiating tips to moving around with taxis without getting shamelessly ripped off, but one common thread that kept coming up was how much Marrakech was going to assault my senses. While it certainly has its own flair which I enjoyed, anyone who has ever been to Lagos (Nigeria) knows what a pure assault on the senses is – both good and bad. Let alone grew up there.
At least we were able to navigate the souks (markets) without hopping over running gutters.
You can probably survive without the tips below. After all, how do locals live their everyday lives? So these are just provided for your comfort really. Especially if your goal is to relax like we did.
Take baby’s stroller if you’ve got one
Go ahead and pack it with you. I personally use the Stokke PramPack for both my stroller and baby carseat. While Marrakech does have a few cobblestones, it’s not the baby-concussion-inducing type of cobblestones you’ll find all over Europe while pushing around a stroller. Our stroller is backwards facing which also protects her from the constant beehive of activity – motorcycles whizzing by, horse-drawn carriages with gawking tourists, and wooden carts pulled by donkeys that frankly need a break. We’ve also got a baby carrier which we use during airport transits and transfers.
Skip traditional riads for now
They’re intricately and gorgeously decorated with tiles, stones, marble, sharp edges, slippery surfaces, and everything else that can possibly crack your baby’s skull by mistake. Especially if your baby is walking. Ours was already scrambling along steadily by 11-months but wobbly feet meant she was trotting around like a drunkard and was always running a few inches out of our grip. We did stay at a nice baby-friendly hotel (Les Jardins de la Medina) right in the Kasbah quarter of the medina and it was a riad on tranquil drugs complete with a magnificent outdoor garden which all the balconies looked on to. Will share photos on a post dedicated to this place.
Forget three square meals a day
It just won’t happen with a baby. By the time 5-6pm rolls around, you’re already thinking about your baby’s own nightly routines – baths, baby dinner, sleep time. So do your restaurant splurging during the day for lunch. Because once dinner rolls around, you’ll probably have passed out by 8pm.
Hire a guide to show you around the souks first
Most hotels and riads can organize one and relatively cheaply too. I personally love to set off and explore on my own, but the one thing I didn’t want was to get so helplessly lost with a baby in tow. So we got a guide to show us around including shortcuts as well as give us quick tips on what to do/not do. Then we set off on our own afterwards.
Enjoy the food
Tagines with delicious fall-off-the-bone lamb and chicken. Feather light couscous that melts in your mouth. Chewy Moroccan pancakes. Go ahead and let your baby dig in with reckless abandon (well, skip honey products and nuts before 1 year old).
If you and/or your baby are picky eaters, pack your own food.
People will kiss your baby
I’m certainly not the finicky kind and I’m open to people interacting and connecting with my child (within reason of course). It’s extremely important for her at this young age to start seeing a sea of different faces and cultures. If you have a baby, he/she will be ripped out of your arms, carried, swung around, tossed into the air, and played with by everyone from hotel staff to market vendors. If you are the finicky kind, make sure you pack extra wet wipes and antibacterial lotion because you will need them.
Shell out the dirhams
You should be willing to shell out a few extra dirhams for peace of mind. Whether it’s arranging an airport transfer beforehand if arriving in the evening or at night. Or paying a local guide to show you around, Marrakech can be quite stressful and so much so when you’re dragging a baby along with you.
Water everywhere
After suffering heatstroke in Egypt that scared me, I’ve always been paranoid when traveling through hot climates and always carry water – bottled water – with me. Even here in Stockholm, My husband and I usually have a bottle with us everywhere we go. Make sure you have at least one bottle with you and give baby constant sips to prevent dehydration. It may seem like a no brainer, but chances are if you’re not constantly drinking yourself, you’ll probably forget to give baby a few sips every now and then.
Be realistic
If you’ve already been traveling with your infant, you already know that you will not see and do half of what you’ve set out to do. Be realistic with your itinerary. So we didn’t get to visit all the restaurants I received as recommendations. While I explored Djemaa El-Fna during the day, I didn’t go back out at night to photograph its energy which pained me greatly as a photographer.
The key to successfully traveling with an infant is flexibility and just going with the flow. Mine has already been to nine countries before her first birthday and we have a few more in the works (God willing).
I’m already looking forward to going back to Morocco and exploring the outskirts including the Atlas Mountains, the Sahara, Fes, berber villages, and Essaouira.
If you can find someone to babysit while you go on the camel solo. I’m not sure about having the 4-month old on one. Most organizers would say no.
Hi Lola!
Great insightful article. We are planning a trip to Morocco with our baby who will be somewhere between 12 to 15 months dependong on when we travel. What places would you recommend other than Marrakech?
Also, we dont drive, can we cheaply , easily and reliably hire a car with a driver? thanks
Thanks! We visited mostly Casablanca and Marrakech and the train between both cities was smooth and efficient. Not sure how long you’ll be staying in Morocco but you could also check out Essaouira – http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/africa/morocco/essaouira/articles/Morocco-Essaouiras-many-thrills/.
We didn’t rent a car (got around with taxis and walking around). If you plan on seeing many places within a short duration, maybe renting a car with driver might work. I know our own schedule was dictacted by our 11 month old which meant a slower pace of travel.
My kids grew up traveling and were seasoned vets at age 5. Now that we live in Sweden, only I travel everyone wants to stay grounded.
I’m definitely pro-travel at a young age. I can definitely see its effects already on my 3-year old 🙂
These are fab tips I don’t have a baby yet and I love to travel; and I have often wonder how one wld cope traveling with a baby. The tips provided has actually made everything seem easy.. Well done lola!
Thanks Funke! I definitely love traveling with my daughter now.
Hi..thanks for lovely tips. we are travelling to Morocco with our baby to celebrate his first birthday in feb. Need few suggestions:
He is breastfed. will i have problem with that.
Which cities were you able to cover. Desert? Mountains?
Will have more queries but would really appreciate response to these to start with :).
Thanks
@Noureen – We loved Morocco and can’t wait to go back. We were mostly in Marrakech and Casablanca, and decided to opt out of the mountains and desert because we weren’t going to be able to do the activities (like camel riding and desert camping) responsibly with such a small child.
As far as breastfeeding, you’ll be 100% fine with that. I also stopped just after her first birthday. Please ping me with any more questions you might have.
@Terri – Wow, congratulations!! I had no idea. Here’s to another traveling mama-to-be 🙂
Great post, Lola! I’m due soon, so I love reading anything that I can about traveling with a baby. I loved Marrakech when I went 7 years ago. Morocco is really one of the first places I went where I really felt like I had left a European/Western influenced place. I liked Turkey as well, but there is something about Morocco.
@Theresa – Great to hear from you! Definitely hit me up. Got some recommendations.
@Monica-USA – Yes! I’ve got tons of photos and will post them hopefully soon.
@Esohe – I sooo want to go to Turkey. Istanbul has been calling me for awhile. And I’m glad I know people there too 😉
@Janine – Thanks so much. She’s already running around which still blows my mind.
@Andi – Haha! Yes. I think you’ll be a fabulous mom too.
@Perlina – She’s quite funny. And very social. I’m grateful she gets to travel too.
@Neha – Awww thanks 🙂 Lots more photos coming soon.
Awww! What fantastic photos! Love the post too, but really I can’t tear myself away from your first image. What a great way to grow up!
oh, she seems to be funny your little one. And it seems also that she likes traveling like her mother…;)
Such great tips!!! I will definitely be coming back to your blog in the years to come when I become a mom. LOVE these pics!
Look at your little Princess! I can’t believe how big she is. Where did the year go?
Lovely pictures, as usual 🙂
Beautiful! And it sounds a lot like turkey to me.
Thanks Lola for bringing me along on your travels. The pictures are wonderful I hope you will post more later on? The little one is getting so big now!! :o)
Though we don’t have a baby, these tips still seemed really useful. I’ve had Morocco on my mind a lot the past few months and am thinking it might make it onto the itinerary this year. If so, I’ll have to hit you up for restaurant and other tips. Great to see the family having so much fun exploring together!